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Origin and Habitat: Japan (Nursery produced cultivar)
Synonyms:
Description: Haworthia cv. YumedonoSN|13293]]SN|13293]] is a lovely cultivars with conspicuous white tubercles in the leaves, giving the plant a frosty appearance.
Rosettes: Stemless, usually solitary that rarely offsets and grows to about 8-10 cm across.
Leaves: 2,5-4(-6) cm long, about 1-2 cm broad and 8-12 mm thick in the centre, fleshy, ovate triangular to deltoid, abruptly flattened on the upper half of the face and reflexed in the upper third (slightly recurved at tips) and keeled in the upper half. Margins with fine white teeth. Dark, rough-surfaced (almost like sandpaper), translucent area, with very dense white, crystalline tubercules that converge into lines running to the point.
Remarks: This a favourite plant for hybridizers and there are a few outstanding hybrids using this as one of the parents.
Subspecies, varieties, forms and cultivars of plants belonging to the Haworthia hybrids group
- Haworthia cv. Alligator Pair
- Haworthia cv. Green Rose
- Haworthia cv. Hakuma: Japanese hybrid with small triangular rasp-like crystalline leaves with tubercles, turning pinkish to brownish-red in good light.
- Haworthia cv. Jade Star
- Haworthia cv. Jaffa: It comes from a cross involving Haworthia mirabilis var. badia x Haworthia dekenahii var. argenteomaculosa. A Joyce L. Cocozza hybrid.
- Haworthia cv. Kegani: Compact growth, with dark chocolate rugose/papillate leaves that are spirally arranged in adulhood, while in young plants they are distichous arranged (in two rows like a fan) This shows its relationship with Haworthia truncata.
- Haworthia cv. Yumedono
Haworthia cv. Yumedono Photo by: Valentino Vallicelli
Haworthia cv. Yumedono Photo by: Valentino Vallicelli
Haworthia cv. Yumedono Photo by: Valentino Vallicelli
Haworthia cv. Yumedono Photo by: Valentino Vallicelli
Cultivation and Propagation: Haworthia are of easy cultivation and relatively low maintenance, which makes them a good houseplant, and can be an excellent subject for the beginning succulentophile (they can grow easily on window sills, verandas and in miniature succulent gardens where they are happy to share their habitat with other smaller succulent plants, or in outdoor rockeries). Haworthias are winter growers and are dormant in the hottest summer months.
Growth rate: They are relatively fast-growing plants that offsets freely to form small clusters quickly.
Soil: They are tolerant of a wide range of soils and habitats, but prefer a very porous potting mix to increase drainage. A non-acid soil is ideal. You can grow a plant in a 10-15 cm pot for years and have perfectly happy plants. For best results, use a shallow pot.
Exposition: The plant needs light shade to shade, but will take full sun part of the day. (with some sun exposure the leaf develops a nice reddish tint and remains compact).
Watering: During the hot summer months, the soil should be kept moist but not overly wet. During the winter months, water only when the soil becomes completely dry. Wet soil quickly causes root and stem rot, especially during chilly winter months. No water should ever be allowed to stand around the roots. Low ambient humidity is always needed.
Fertilization: The plants are fertilized only once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer diluted to ½ the recommended strength.
Hardiness: Although the plant will survive mild frost if kept dry (hardy as low as -5° C) it should be protected from severe cold and prolonged frost conditions.
Rot: Rot is only a minor problem with Haworthia if the plants are watered and “aired” correctly. If they are not, fungicides won't help all that much. Care must be given in watering, keeping them warm and wet while growing, and cooler and dry when dormant.
Remarks: Haworthias are best planted in a shaded and airy part of the greenhouse, and not too close to the glass roof or sides of the house as the plants can overheat during hot spells.
Propagation: Haworthia are easily propagated by the removal of offshoots or by leaf cuttings in spring or summer. To propagate by leaf cuttings, remove a leaf and let it lie for about one month, giving the wound time to heal. Then lay the leaf on its side with the basal part buried in the soil. This leaf should root within a month or two, and small plants will form at the leaf base. They can also be grown from seed.
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